The Hussar Grill

I first ate at the Hussar Grill in Rondebosch  in 2004, and to remember a meal had ten years ago means it must have left a lasting impression. I was therefore exceptionally excited to have claimed a last minute booking to dine at the Stellenbosch branch just this past Tuesday evening. Knowing that the menu hadn’t changed much over the years only served to heighten the anticipation of this dining experience as there were old time favourites that I couldn’t wait to indulge in.

Upon arrival we were graciously greeted by the hostess and shown to our table. For me, a lot lies in the details, and  I was not to be disappointed. Crisp white table clothes, beautiful wine glasses and then the bowls of olives and sweet potato crisps already waiting on the table. And not just any olives and crisps, really good ones, which we devoured in a flash. I was ravenous and keen to get in our order of wine so we could proceed to eat. The wine list had a good selection and we settled on a bottle of Pinotage which we thought would fair well with most of what was on the menu, well certainly with what we were going to eat.

Like I said, there were a few favourites I could not wait to indulge in, so the crumbed camembert on cranberry sauce was the chosen starter. This is the very first thing I had eaten at The Hussar those ten years ago and I was hoping I would enjoy it as much this time as I did then. I can say, which is saying something, that I perhaps enjoyed it even more this time. The crumbed exterior was crisp and golden, and the the soft elasticity of the perfectly cooked cheese on the inside was heavenly, this together with the cranberry sauce scooped up onto little pieces of toasted baguette was simply delicious. It was one of those moments, where I at one point wanted to voice that I thought another one was in order, but then remembering the generous main course portion sizes, thought it best to refrain. I needed to keep space for what was to come. That, I tell you, was a wise decision, because what did arrive for main course, for just two, could probably have fed at least three…okay so perhaps the order of a 600g portion of warthog ribs and the 300g fillet on the bone with truffle mushroom sauce, two portions of fries and a side of veg was a bit much but we sure did give it a good go. Every single bite of those dishes and their sides had me making noises highly inappropriate for a restaurant, but it was just that good. The warthog ribs were deboned and the rich basting sauce almost caramalised onto the outside. The fat had been nicely rendered and all of that flavour transferred into the meat, even now as I write this I am already planning my hasty return to to indulge once again. Then there was the fillet on the bone, which was quite something else. The meat was so full of flavour that even when taking a bite drenched with the truflle mushroom sauce it held it’s own, at no point did the sauce overpower this cut, it in fact served to balance and compliment so well. It was also of course cooked to perfection. The sides do need a mention too, the fries were straight cut, salted and served wrapped in wax paper in a silver cup, again, I love the details, and the creamed spinach and cinnamon laced pureed butternut, simple, yet so satisfying. Then to finish dom pedro’s, one with whiskey, one with Kahlua, oh, and chocolate shots on the side, the perfect end to the perfect meal and one of my favourite dining experiences this year.

The fact that the Hussar Grill first opened it’s doors in Rondebosch in 1964, fifty years ago, and the the fact that they now successfully operate six other branches in and around Cape Town bears testament to the fact that they never compromise on the quality of what they serve and hence are still going strong. I am so looking forward to my next visit. If you haven’t been I urge you to try it for yourself.